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Finland 100
Posted: Thu 1. Jun 2017, 22:42
by Jyri Haveri
So this year Finland is turning 100yr and I have been thinking about making finn themed whip.
It's probably going to be bullwhip 10feet in lenght with white as main colour with blue like finnish flag, hopefully with some damascus ferrule and concho.
This would be longest whip I have ever done.
Becose its going to be so long it does not need so long shot loading? Maybe I am going to do 3 plaited bellyes and overlay.
I think longer whips are more suitable for me. I dont want it to be like sledgehammer but still have enough weight to be able to crack with really little or no force.
How far you make the bellyes in your whips? I have just eyeballed them this far, but now its going to be so long and there is going to be 3 bellyes. Should it be a bit agressive taper in so long whip or a little slower?
Any adwise are welcome!
Posted: Thu 1. Jun 2017, 22:45
by Ron May
Jyri, I don't think a whip that long even needs shot loading.
Ron
Posted: Fri 2. Jun 2017, 01:19
by Jeff Roseborough
This is just me but with 3 bellies and an overlay I would go about 1/3,2/3, and almost to the end. When I do bellies in leather they are 4 plait, taper, and the last 6 inches or so are unplaited, each strand divided into 2, and then tapered/staggered also to create more taper. If you end a paracord belly with 4 strands cut the leftover strands different lengths to taper them overall and become the "core" for the next layer.
Jeff
Posted: Fri 2. Jun 2017, 09:24
by Jyri Haveri
Ron, I tought so too no shots just paracord for the core. Thanks!
Jeff, I end my bellyes just like you said. I give those belly lenghts a try. Thanks!
How long transition bindings you guys do for 10 footers?
Posted: Fri 2. Jun 2017, 10:32
by Brandon "Sparky" Lam
A whip with 3 bellies doesn't need to have shot loading, but at 3 bellies, I'm not sure it matters too much :P
I wax all my whips, so from my experience with wax, any 3 belly whip will be heavy, not sure about unwaxed.
In terms of the binding, I open loop the entire belly in multiple tapering passes, and then the transition itself is close looped, but the length of that is totally up to feel. I think I do maybe 6 - 12 inches for the actual really tight closed loop? Though for a 10ft you might want to lean towards further to strengthen the transition - you just want to make sure it's rock solid and transfers energy well
Posted: Sun 11. Jun 2017, 15:55
by Jyri Haveri
Thanks Brandon!
I got an idea today. Maybe if I just do full damascus handle and machine the end down to the point where to attach the core.
Posted: Tue 13. Jun 2017, 15:05
by Sven van Leeuwen
I once made a 3 belly 10ft whip. It was a beast.
Heavy for sure.
I actually shotloaded it, but as said before I think that would be overkill.
It cracked very loud with little effort.
Just make sure it tapers well.
Sven
Posted: Tue 13. Jun 2017, 15:24
by Jyri Haveri
I'm not going to shotload it and I think heavy damascus handle will balance it well.
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 14:37
by Jyri Haveri
I have been thinking about how I am going to do this whip and I have few broblems.
1. I want white on the left side and blue on the other in 16plat overlay. How do i do that? If i cut my strands in the middle and fuse them together i have to cover the start with binding and its not going to last so well, at least when i have tryed it.
2. Full damascus handle would be too expensive so maybe I am going to make damascus coin to the end and the heel would be birchbark (what would be more finish than that?
) and put some nice wood over the steel rod.
Maybe I have to find a way to make it so i can assemble it after i have made the whip part. Maybe i stack the bircbark on to bit thiker piece of steel, drill hole thru it and thread it so i could just screw everything together.
If anyone have any ideas i will happily listen!
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 15:37
by Brandon "Sparky" Lam
Jyri, with your plaiting problem, your solution is something called the Crown Start, but I'm not sure whether you have access to the page because you're a new member, but essentially it's folding the two colours into each other before doing the square start, so each side is a single colour
viewtopic.php?id=4611
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 16:10
by Ron May
Jyri, here's how to do a square start on YouTube.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0vIcD8b ... rGTvQt-e7I
Another one with fewer strands, but the method is the same.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rpWPjFm ... rGTvQt-e7I
Ron
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 16:42
by Jyri Haveri
Thank you!
Brandon you are right i can't see the link. Can you tell me more about this folding?
Ron, i have actually watched those videos but maybe it is time for me to really try it.
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 16:49
by Rachel McCollough
Jyri- crown start is not so difficult if you think of it as weaving in a 45 degree angle or diagonal. You are folding your strand in half (making it two strands). This is what you pair and weave with the second color.
I will see if I can get a picture of an example for you.
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 16:54
by Jyri Haveri
That would be really helpful Rachel!
Posted: Sun 16. Jul 2017, 18:07
by Matt Henderson
I can kind of imagine this now, and it's going to look fantastic! Best of luck
Posted: Tue 18. Jul 2017, 13:48
by Rachel McCollough
Fold your strands in half. Make a sub unit like in the picture.
You will need three subunits for a 12 plait, 4 for a 16 plait. This works with multiples of 4.
They sit next to each other and weave together like this:
Once you have them all woven together, do just like you do for the square start-
Take the top right strand around the back and plait diamond plait (it may require o1u1 or u1o1, just whichever is needed). Get the strand from the left and go around back and plait it. Do this 2-3 rounds then you can start herringbone or what ever you like. Just make sure you tighten the strands very very tightly and very very well.
Posted: Tue 18. Jul 2017, 13:49
by Rachel McCollough
Sorry for the duplicate pics!
Posted: Tue 18. Jul 2017, 14:02
by Jyri Haveri
Rachel, i can't thank you enough for this really good explanation and these good pics!
Thank you reeeeally much!
Posted: Tue 18. Jul 2017, 14:22
by Ron May
Thank you a lot Rachel, you're always there to help.
This is very informative for those who don't have access to YouTube and the threads that only full members have access to.
Ron
Posted: Tue 18. Jul 2017, 16:02
by Rachel McCollough
Welcome :-)